Ah, spring…slightly warmer temperatures, gloriously longer days and lots more work to be done around the house and garden! Reward yourself after a burst of spring-cleaning by eating out at one of Beaumont-Wilshire’s fabulous local restaurants. Here are three spots to try, each of them bringing unique flavor and ambience to our neighborhood. In the interest of thorough reporting, I visited each of these delightful eateries for a meal (or two) and thoroughly enjoyed them all.
Fire and Stone
Wood-fired pizza and bakery
Fire and Stone opened late in December 2014 at 3707 NE Fremont Street (in the former Wilshire Market building). This already-popular restaurant serves wood-fired pizza for lunch and dinner and bakes all of its own bread and pastries. The décor is simple and open, with forestry-inspired wood tables and booths. For lunch, try the fried cod sandwich served on ciabatta with fennel, onion and greens. If you’re going for pizza (served for both lunch and dinner), try the ground sausage, crumbled evenly over the top. For something different, try their white pizza with ricotta and mozzarella.
If you only have time for a quick stop, visit the take-out side of the restaurant where you’ll see a shelf with bags of bread ready to go. I tried the gigantic ciabatta loaf, which is actually made in their wood-fired oven. Most of their regular loaves are baked in a traditional oven and usually include baguette, sourdough and a seven-grain farm loaf. In the morning, you can order Ristretto Roasters espresso from the take-out area or buy a house-made pastry. They’re open every weekday at 7 a.m. The vanilla syrup is made in-house, as well as chocolate ganache, which I’m told is an excellent choice for kids’ hot chocolate.
Manager Rebecca Emrick told me, “This neighborhood has been so welcoming with the restaurant, it’s amazing…the response has been tremendous. We’ve only been open a few months and we already have repeat customers.” In addition, diners have told her they simply “love having somewhere to walk” (though there’s a parking lot too for folks arriving in cars). People tell Fire and Stone that they’re excited about what Wilshire Market has become, “rather than a condo or more apartments.”
I’m going back soon to sample their savory pancetta scone. Visit http://fireandstonepdx.com for their menu and more.
Bang Bang
Thai-inspired curry and cocktails
Bang Bang opened in February of this year at 4727 NE Fremont Street and immediately drew the attention of Portland’s food-loving scene. Offering a Thai-style menu (most of which happens to be gluten-free), this cozy evening spot draws curious eaters from in and outside Beaumont-Wilshire with custom cocktails and curries. I’m going to go out on a limb and tell you to order the chicken wings. When I went to eat there on a busy Saturday night (Bang Bang’s fourth night after opening), the people next to us were ordering chicken wings – for the fourth night in a row. Other notable items on the menu include a Panang curry (which happens to be vegan) as well as a green curry with pork belly and housemade sausage.
I spoke with one of the owners, Kate Wood, and asked her to describe the food. “It’s hard for me to highlight one thing. Everything’s so varied, and yet perfectly balanced; creamy and spicy. I’m proud of [chef Adam Caplan’s] food.”
You’re likely to meet one or all of the owners (Kate Wood, Alex Wood and Adam Caplan) when you eat at Bang Bang. They’re serving food, tending bar, greeting folks at the door, and generally look to be having a grand time. “We wanted to open a spot in this neighborhood because we all live in NE (on the edge of Rose City Cemetery). We like having a relationship with our neighbors.” Kate and Alex also own Aalto Lounge in SE Portland, where they serve the Belmont neighborhood. “Our best customers are our neighbors. We’re looking forward to being better acquainted with this community.”
Bang Bang opens at 5 p.m. every day except Tuesday. They’re around late—until midnight most days—and even later on Friday and Saturday. Check http://www.bangbangpdx.com/ for details.
Daruma
Tokyo-style sushi bar
Daruma is a cozy, 25-seat sushi bar at 3520 NE 42nd Avenue. After opening in 2013, Daruma quickly became a go-to destination for sushi-heads throughout Portland. In 2014 the Portland Mercury bestowed Daruma with “Portland’s Most Underrated Sushi” award. “It exceeded my own expectations,” said owner Andy Diaz, who also runs Blackbird Wine–Atomic Cheese on Fremont Street. “I attribute much of this to our chef Yuki Yamada.” Mr. Yamada is Japanese and uses authentic preparation to pickle and prepare the fish for the table.
I love the relaxed, yet authentic atmosphere and the clean design of this intimate space. Also, the sushi is outstanding. Try the ocean trout when you visit. The fish is pink like salmon, but more melt-in-your-mouth (i.e., less chewy). Chef Yamada finishes it by torching the edge of skin on one side.
Soon Daruma will begin serving lunch. The menu will feature both rolls and bowls. Diners can stay and eat (if you have time, try a donburi bowl) or select from ready-to-grab sushi. “We want to serve our neighbors—like the shop owners and teachers across the street—so we’re making it really accessible,” said Diaz.
Daruma (pronounced DA-roo-mah) is Japanese for dharma, a reference to the cosmic way in which the restaurant came to be. As Diaz tells it, he had fallen asleep watching the documentary Jiro Dreams of Sushi and awoke to a phone call from a realtor friend who told him that the Ristretto Roasters space (at 3520 NE 42nd) had just become available. “Someone should open a sushi place there,” replied Diaz. The rest, as we like to say, is Beaumont-Wilshire history.
Daruma serves dinner from 5–9 p.m. Tuesday–Saturday. Be sure to visit http://www.darumapdx.com/ for menu and new lunch hours.