Johanna Ware opened her new restaurant, Smallwares, in February at the corner of 46th and Fremont, bringing a unique and welcome addition to the Beaumont food scene. I had a chance to talk with Johanna about her vision for the restaurant and what brought her to our neighborhood.
Johanna began her journey working in Portland’s food industry and then spent seven years in New York cultivating her cooking skills and developing her own sense of taste and style. Her plan was always to come back to Portland and open a place of her own. After moving back to Portland, she worked at Nostrana for nearly two years and then began the daunting task of establishing a new restaurant. Beaumont-Wilshire was a good fit for her because she and her husband live nearby and hope to buy a house in this neighborhood next year. She was able to secure a lease on Fremont (in the former Doc George’s space) and has since redesigned the interior into a modern and comfortable space with a full bar and open kitchen.
The menu at Smallwares reflects Johanna’s preference for bold flavors, spice balanced with acidity, and dishes that draw from a wide range of sources. She considers her food to be “inauthentic Asian” because there is an Asian theme, but she doesn’t adhere to any traditions in terms of ingredients. She is more interested in foods that fit well together to make an interesting and tasty dish. Smallwares offers a variety of small-ish plates that are easily shared – an approach that encourages people to try more dishes and broaden their dining experience. Johanna expressed concern that people might find her menu somewhat perplexing because the dishes and ingredients may not be as familiar. She has very experienced and helpful people on her staff that are happy to guide customers through the menu and make suggestions. So while this isn’t a restaurant review, the my personal experience has been that menu, while distinctive, is quite approachable and the flavors are at once familiar and new. Johanna expects that her menu will continue to evolve and she hopes her customers will provide feedback to help inform her decisions. Smallwares has also recently added a kid’s menu and Johanna mentioned that they are always willing to accommodate dietary restrictions (gluten-free, etc.) to the extent possible.
The space at Smallwares also includes a sizable area in back that is soon to become Barwares, a drinking and eating lounge that will provide an alternative to the more “formal” dining room. Barwares, which she is hoping to open late April, will have a separate full bar, large fireplace, outdoor seating in the courtyard, and will stay open later than the restaurant. The full Smallwares menu, plus additional items, will be available in the bar area, and there will be some larger tables that can be reserved for parties.
Johanna hopes that Smallwares will be a good fit on Fremont Street and she looks forward to being involved and getting to know more of her neighbors. She joined the Beaumont Business Association and has sent postcards out to nearby residents offering a discount on their first visit. For myself, I look forward to more evenings at Smallwares (my husband can’t get enough of their kimchi) and am happy for the flair they are adding to our neighborhood.
You can check out Smallwares’ menu and hours at: http://www.smallwarespdx.com/.